Saturday, August 20, 2016

Belize Part 2: Some Sand, the Sea, and a Manatee

As I said in my previous entry, the first few days I spent on this vacation were actually spent in Guatemala, seeing the ruins of old Mayan cities.  The third day was spent exploring the ATM caves.  The following two days were spent exploring the Mayan ruins of Belize.

After that, the beaches.

The beaches are easier and less intensive to write about, so I’ll start with them, and then write next about the four Mayan ruins that I visited (two in Belize and two in Guatemala). 

I arrived at the first beach, Caye Caulker, in the evening on the sixth day of my vacation.  I had taken a bus from Orange Walk (where the final site of ruins I visited was located) back to Belize City.  From the bus station it was supposed to be an easy walk to the water taxi that would take me to Caye Caulker where I was meeting up with Julia again.  It would have been an easy walk, and realistically it was, only I had no real idea where I was going and none of the streets are marked.  I basically just kept walking straight and then asking for directions every 100 yards or so.  It definitely made things easier that people in Belize speak English, although I would have been fine if they spoke Spanish as well.  I ended up finding the less advertised water taxi, the one that is used by Belizeans more than tourists.  It’s called Ocean Ferry Belize and it cost me half as much as the other water taxi and was located closer to the bus station.  Perfect.

I arrived that night and found Julia outside our hotel, La Cubana, which advertised “Sleeping Boxes”.  Sleeping Boxes was a very apt description for the room, which contained three feet of space between the edge of the bunk beds and the sliding door (which had to slide as a door wouldn’t have been able to open all the way).  The room was as wide as the bunk beds.  A box, indeed.  
However, we were only planning on being there for two nights and it cost $30 BZE (or $15 American) per night, so it was the perfect place for us.  Suffice it to say, however, that we got to know each other quite a bit better staying in a room like that.  My personal favorite part of the hotel was that one bathroom had no toilet, one had no lights, and the other had no water.  I took a very dark shower there.

That night we met up with Angelica and Jan, a Czech woman and a Swiss man we had previously met at our hostel in San Ignacio.  We went out to dinner at a place that had a free Daquari with dinner, and all ordered some blackened snapper.  It was across from a place that offered tours during the day, which was named in Creole, and made us all laugh:
As we sat there drinking our blue drinks and eating our spicy fish, Alice and James, a British couple that we had all befriended at the hostel in San Ignacio, walked by.  We talked for a minute before they moved on.  After dinner Jan, Julia, and I went out to the local Sports Bar where we bumped into a guy from his hostel.  We got a few drinks and danced for a while, bumping into even more people that we’d met over the course of our trips.  I ran into the guy I met in San Ignacio the first night, before I’d left for Guatemala.  He tried to take me home with him, and then picked another white girl when he struck out.

The only full day we spent in Caye Caulker we walked down the beach toward all the resorts and private docks.  We saw one that was extremely colorful and bright, and found out from the security guard that it only cost $5 to use for the whole day.  
So we went out to the covered area (my back was still slightly burned from my solo trip to Lamanai the morning before).  I laid in the hammock and Julia swam out to the second dock that was further out in the water.  We swam a bit, read our books, and tanned a little (it was surprisingly easy to keep my upper back in the shade but get my lower back and legs tanned).  Pelicans repeatedly landed on the dock and walked along it.  Once while coming back from the bathroom I even had a Mexican standoff with two halfway down the dock.  
They refused to move, so I just edged past them slowly while avoiding eye contact.

The birds obviously won that one.

After lunch we came back to find the dock occupied, so we laid on chairs on the beach under the palm trees and waiting for the obnoxious Americans to leave.  “Let’s go get wasted!  Happy hour!  Are these brownies special?”  Haha, you’re super clever.

We headed down the beach later to grab cheap margaritas at the Lazy Lizard, a bar at the end of the island.  We watched the sunset, played cornhole, and got hit on by a good-looking local.  (“We should make a Snickers bar.  You can be the nougat, she’s the caramel, and I’ll bring the chocolate and the nuts.”  Yikes, that’s terrible and awesome at the same time.  Terriblawesome).

That night we planned to go out harder than the night before, more dressed up and a few more drinks.  We spent a good amount of time getting ready to go out, and then went for dinner at a great BBQ place on the beach.  When it was time to head to the bar, we discovered that that whole block of the beach, including our hotel and the bar, had a brown out and no power.  We walked around to try and find where people were going, but it seemed like the whole island was pretty dead.  The bracelets (which I usually buy when I travel) were expensive, but I bought one anyway, so the Guatemalan man selling them, delighted with my Spanish, made us free earrings.

The next morning we got up early and went down the street to grab breakfast, since our hotel didn’t have power to make the free breakfast.  We walked around a while, ate a cheap lunch at some food carts, then got beautiful but bland margaritas at the Lazy Lizard before catching the water taxi to San Pedro.  We rode on the top even though it was raining lightly.  Especially because it was raining lightly, since it had been very hot and muggy for the whole trip.  We found our new hostel, the Sandbar, which is absolutely worth staying at if you’re in San Pedro.  We walked about the beach, learned about lionfish (a foreign species that has started to overtake the local reefs), and then met a few people from our hostel.  We ended up getting dinner and playing cards with a guy named Hamlet and the bartender from our hostel.

We kept hearing about something called the “Chicken Drop” so we asked about it at breakfast the next morning.  Apparently farther down the beach from us there’s a place where they put a chicken in a pen with a grid and people bet where the chicken is going to poop.  There are also hermit crab races some weekends, with all the house proceeds from both going to the local food bank.  We were going to check it out, but we never got a chance.  That morning after we ate we walked around to see how expensive it was to rent a golf cart (the primary means of transportation on the island).  The places we checked always had a price around $200 for the day, which we didn’t want to spend, even once we spit it.  However, when we got back to our hotel to ask how to get to Secret Beach (a local spot we’d heard was nice), they said they had a deal with the local supermarket where we could get a cart for $50. 

We rented the cart and drove it about an hour over unpaved, uneven ground, bumpy and polka dotted with murky puddles, to the Secret Beach.  We were the first ones there, at this beach that popped out of nowhere, past all the nothingness and scrubby brush that had littered the roadside.  It was quite a trek (we took a video on Julia’s GoPro, but I don’t have access to it so I can’t post it here), so I was unsurprised that we were the first ones there at ten am.  We claimed the only dock that had coverage and shade, and that also boasted the best water access.  
We got good tans and I got a little sun rash (curse this allergy of mine).  Mostly we did the same as we had done on the dock in Caye Caulker- reading and laying around with an occasional break in the water.  It was one of the few places I encountered in Belize that had no seaweed and hadn’t been obviously cleared of it.  More people came eventually, but they either set up on the other, unshaded dock or the beach.  
We stayed most of the day and held down the dock until the late afternoon, before we took a bumpy ass ride home, laughing all the way ha ha ha.  The journey was the most fun. 

We got back, showered, got dressed up, started drinking some rum that Hamlet had left us, and played cards with a few guys from our hostel.  We didn’t end up going out like we had planned because all the bars that were busy were far away.

I was really sick in the morning (I have a really fun, medically unexplained condition that makes me faint and vomit profusely often, with or without alcohol).  We were supposed to go snorkeling at Shark Ray Alley and Hol Chan Marine Reserve, but I was too sick so we rescheduled for the afternoon.  I tried to eat a sandwich at lunch, but could only manage the fries.  We finally went snorkeling.  The boat was called Bubbles and our guide was named Blinky.  It was Julia and me, plus an older couple and a younger couple.  We went to Hol Chan first, and were told we would see at least one sea turtle but probably no manatees, since they aren’t very common in the area.  Blinky said he only saw them about once a month.  So of course after five minutes of swimming in the water, seeing a lot of different kinds of fishes, I looked up and realized there was a manatee about fifteen feet in front of me.  I pulled my head out of the water and tried to call everyone over, but they couldn’t hear me since their heads were in the water, so I waved at the guide underwater to get his attention, and then pointed it out.  Everyone freaked out.  It was really cool, and extremely graceful considering its girth.  Julia took a video on her GoPro, and since I had already been so close to it, I’m in the entire video.  Again, don’t have access.  Then other groups started coming over and we left to go find a sea turtle, which was beautiful.

Next we went to Shark Ray Alley, where other guides were throwing chum over the sides of the boat to attract Nurse Sharks and Sting Rays.  The feeding frenzy was truly something simultaneously gruesome and awesome, in the true meaning of the word.  The older couple from my group kept having to be told not to touch the sharks and rays, and were generally pretty terrible about it.

We showered when we got back and I ate my sandwich from lunch.  Then we went to a nearby bar for a free Steve Miller Band concert.  
We were going to try to go to the Hermit Crab races, but were too tired and bailed at the last second.  The crabs are usually raced only once per week and then released, and it’s for charity.  The local food bank is really important because a lot of the locals who live on the resort island can’t really afford to live there, but have to be there to work.  So the food bank helps feed those kinds of families.  I still wish we’d pushed ourselves to go, but it was also pretty far down the beach.

We left the next morning to catch our flight (we were on the same one to Houston).  At the water taxi was an obnoxious group of high schoolers obviously on their year-end trip.  One funny exchange I head was between one of the high school girls and one of the guys.  “The best decision I made last night was not wearing a bra.” Guy: “You can make that decision any time.”

Our cab driver in Belize City put the radio on a show about local arts education which featured a lot of children singing live, which was cute.  We had been told there was an exit fee, and so had saved money, but it turned out the exit fee was included in our airline ticket, so we had a lot of cash for a nice breakfast and souvenirs. 


Overall the trip was amazing, and the beach was the perfect way to relax at the end of a hectic beginning of travel and trekking.  Next up is a write up of all the ruins I visited in Guatemala and Belize.

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