Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Bali Temples, Bali Dances, Bali Bali

I got to Incheon Airport super early and THANK GOD I did because my flight was delayed so I would miss my connection.  They put me on an earlier flight, which seemed a bit like fate.  Waiting for the transfer bus in Shanghai it was just one other guy from my Seoul flight and me.  We got to talking and found out we lived three subway stops apart in Korea.  Then he told me he was from Oregon, Portland, Jesuit!  His dad works with Mike.  Crazy coincidences.

We were also sitting together on the flight to Bali, so we decided to just travel together for the first few days, until I moved to a new city or his girlfriend arrived from Korea.  We had bunk beds in a very run down hostel our first night and then moved on to a nicer hotel (same price- gotta love SE Asia) the next morning.   Got burned with some unfortunate tan lines, but whatever.  We met a German guy named Mario on the beach and ended up hanging out with him.  He was forty-two, but looked in his mid-thirties with longish hair.  He was a happy-go-lucky, slightly strange guy but he was fun.  That night we went to all you can eat tacos and enchiladas ($4) and then free drinks until 11.  I got pretty drunk, spoke Spanish with some cute Chileans, met an Irish guy named Paddy because of course he was, sliced my foot open demonstrating a proper pitch when someone made fun of softball, danced on a bar, and still went home pretty early.

Wednesday I kind of regret because I wasted it feeling like terrible from lack of sleep.  I went to the beach alone, but couldn’t leave the shade due to a headache and the previous day’s burn.  Brian (from the flight) was booking stuff for his girlfriend’s arrival.  I went back to the hotel and took a short nap.  After, I felt better so I went to find Brian on the beach.  He was with Mario, who he’d run into.  We hung out a bit, then went back to the same buffet for wings night.  Then we went out again to the same free drinks place.  We met another solo traveler who was cool.  His name was Tice and he was Dutch.  He was tall, skinny, awkward, but nice once you got past that.  We all shared a hookah and watched Mario crawl around on the floor trying to get a closer look at a prostitute’s shoes.  Honestly.

Thursday I got up early and packed up, booked a bus to Ubud and took off with a few nineteen year old British girls (Natalie, nice brunette, gave in to traveler chic, Georgie, tan, blonde, quiet, Abby, blonde wanna-be fashionista type, sunburned, and Jo who was super obnoxious “I quit that job.  A the end of the day I was so tired of riding their horses that I didn’t even want to ride my own horse.” Shut up, Jo). 

We went to the Sacred Monkey Temple when we got there, after finding a nice hotel.   The monkeys kept trying to hide in and climb up my long, white skirt.  Then we did nothing until around seven when we ventured out in the rain to get dinner.  The weather had been beautiful up until then.

Friday was the busiest day of the trip so far.  I got up early to finish planning and then hired a taxi to take me around a bit.  For $15 he took me around for 2.5 hours, to Goa Gajah (the elephant cave) and Gunung Kawi (the rocky temple).  Goa Gajah was cool, but OH MY GOD Gunung Kawi was incredible.  Goa Gajah has lots of little waterfalls and holy water fountains.  There was the small cave with Buddhist carvings inside.  There was a waterfall down some stairs that had huge, carved stones in its pool, the remnants of ancient pillars.  That was about it.  Gunung Kawi was down a ton of steps, but partway down the venders stopped, the jungle opened up, and spectacular rice terraces were right there in front of me.  I saw the one on the left first, just above the river, which was rushing at the bottom of the hill.  There were palm trees along the edge of the terrace, and at the bottom, around the river, it gave way to pure jungle.  I wasn’t expecting that view at all, so I unthinkingly said “Holy fucking shit.”  An old Balinese woman nearby making handicrafts chuckled, stood up next to me looking down and said, “Yes.  Holy fucking shit.”  Then I laughed and we shook or awkwardly held hands for a moment before I moved on.  To the right the terraces were more extensive and organized because the hill didn’t give way as sharply.  Still beautiful but in a more obviously artificial way.  I continued down the hill to the bottom, where I crossed a bridge that went over a river.  It said entrance to the right, but a lot of it was under construction.  When I got through the stone structures (some carved right out of the hillside).  I came to a huge stone wall that came right out of the hillside, with carvings in the middle.  It was stunning.  There was another across the river, just to the right of the path I’d been walking down, at the base of the rice terraces.  The walk back up sucked a little bit, but it was still worth it.  I went back to Ubud and got lunch.  It was some delicious spicy-ish chicken, tasty yellow rice, and traditional green vegetables.  Very yummy.  Then I went back to the hotel, changed, and headed out to the Campuhan Ridge Walk (2 km through hills of lush jungle with a steep drop on each side leading down to two rivers).  Then on to the Saraswati temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess of literature, art, and learning.  Two beautiful lily pad covered ponds with a path between them lead up to the temple.  Inside the temple there were a lot of beautiful plants and old grey temple structures, with statues sprinkled in here and there.  It was very quiet, peaceful, and beautiful considering it was in the middle of the city, right next to Starbucks.

That night I went to the Ubud palace to watch a performance of traditional Balinese dance.  There were three dances: the Legong Kraton dance, the Bapang dance, and  the Telek.
The Legong Kraton dance is performed by three women in bright, colorful costumes.  It is about an arrogant kid who wants a princess who has no interest in him.  He plans to slay her father so that he can be with her, but ends up dying in battle instead.
The Bapang dance is an overture to the Telek.  It consists of a monster called the Barong, who is controlled by two different men.  The Barong looked a bit like a very fluffy, hairy dog who had bred with a dragon.  There was another dancer dressed as a monkey, who teased the Barong with a banana.
Then came the final Barong dance, called the Telek.  It started with a dance between virtue and vice, represented by dancer wearing beautiful masks and others wearing ugly masks.  They leave a four women enter, students who study under a witch and are performing a strange magic rite.  They are chased away by the king’s spiritual leader, a white magic guru.  The guru asks the witch to stop doing evil magic, but she refuses.  They fight to see whose magic is stronger and he wins.  Enraged, she turns herself into a monster.  To fight her once more, the guru changes himself into Barong, the dog dragon creature from the Bapang dance.  Her evil power is gone, and it goes into the villagers who were helping Barong.  They feel the evil and kill themselves rather than give in.  Their lives are restored.

The dance itself was bright and beautiful, and a welcome respite from the pouring rain that seems to come every night in Ubud.  The women were all very beautiful, and the dancers’ movements were very precise and elegant.  Their hands and fingers bent in ways I hadn’t realized were possible without force.  All in all, I was very glad I went, even if I did have to walk home barefoot (having ripped open four gaping blisters per foot during the course of the day’s activities) through puddles up to my ankles while the rain continued to pour.  That’s what adventure is all about- not knowing what will happen next and rolling with the punches, so to speak.

Saturday I woke up at two in the morning and got on a van.  We picked up some other people at another hotel.  Then we went to a small parking lot and sat on a platform.  Another van pulled up and the two drivers made us breakfast and gave us tea and coffee.  They made banana pancakes and gave us mango.  Then we continued on, with me in the other van so that we were split four people in each.  We drove to a volcano toward the north of the island.  At around three-thirty the two Finnish girls from my van and I started to climb.

It wasn’t the hardest hike I’ve ever done, but it was far from the easiest.  Some parts required both hands and legs to pull and push yourself up to the next platform, and the ground was covered in scree the entire way up, making it difficult to keep your footing.  The point of going so early was to reach the top before sunrise, which I managed to do in spite of the fact that it was pouring rain once again and there was a thunderstorm over the top of the lake at the base of the volcano.  We reached the top, waiting twenty minutes for the sunrise.  Unfortunately, the cloud cover never dispersed and the sunrise was completely obscured.  We climbed back down quickly, though the Norwegians who ran straight down the side of the mountain, completely forgoing the path, go to the bottom much faster than we did.

After a short nap, I returned to the street outside and found another taxi driver to take me to the Western side of the island.  I went to the water palace, called Tirta Gangga, which was a beautiful garden filled with ponds and fountains.  It was drizzling slightly, but it was still gorgeous.  There were small creeks from one pond to another, with dragon bridges that spanned the barely moving water.  One of the ponds, right next to the largest fountain, had stone steps throughout so you could walk on the water to get closer to the fountain.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a rice terrace on the side of the road and ate lunch.  My driver was really nice and he spoke great English.  He bought me some soup at a roadside hut.  It was a kind of soup that I used to eat in Thailand sometimes, with fish cakes, dumplings, chicken, and sprouts in a super tasty broth.  I never knew what it was called in Thailand, and he didn’t tell me there either.  He also bought me some crackers and jackfruit.  Don’t feel too bad for the driver paying for my meal- for both of us to eat only cost him $1.  It’s hard to hate those Southeast Asian prices.

That afternoon I took the last bus back to Kuta beach, the main tourist beach where I had started my vacation.  I went back to the same hotel and went to the same dinner.  Then I went down to the beach and tried to catch the sunset, but it was a little bit overcast (story of my trip).  One the way back I saw a Damian Lillard jersey and bought it for $20, which is considerably more reasonable than the $80 it costs in the states.

The next day I had a while to hang out because my flight wasn’t until that night at midnight.  I packed up and left all my stuff at the concierge, then went to find a motorcycle taxi.  I found a guy just outside my hotel, and he drove me down the coast to Uluwatu temple, which was a Buddhist temple on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sea.  It was absolutely gorgeous, but all the stairs kind of killed my quads after yesterday’s volcano climb.  On the way back to Kuta, he stopped at three different surfer beaches.  One was so steep that the beach was invisible.  There were little restaurants all down the hill so I ate lunch and watched surfers tackling the huge waves below.  Then we stopped at another beach where I laid out for a short while and read.

My motorcycle driver was a young guy, and he loved to talk about all sorts of things.  He talked the entire time he drove, and sat and talked to me at all the stops, too.   He was talking about music and told me how much he loved Snoop Dog.  I asked if he had ever been to a concert, and he said that Snoop was coming the following week, but tickets were too expensive.  I asked him how much, and he said even the worst seats were at least $200.  Seriously Snoop?  You’re going to come to a developing nation where the majority of the population has little to no disposable income and charge those kinds of prices?  Be realistic.

That night I sat out at the hotel and hung out with a few of the other guests, drinking beer while it poured down rain.  I was waiting for my van to the airport, and they were just starting the night out easy, planning to go out to bars and clubs after I left. 


The flight back to Korea was easy, and all I did the next day was close my bank account and pick up my cat.  And now, back to the states!  Goodbye, Asia, it’s been real.  Stay sweet.

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